A Cook's Book of Mushrooms

As much a philosopher's guide as a chef's recipe collection, Czarnecki's book translates the visceral thrill of mushroom hunting into print. He talks of the myths (fungi are prolific only where angels have stomped and thus created rain, for instance); even more, he speaks knowledgeably about all kinds of fungi, from the scarce, rare, expensive truffle to the ubiquitous button mushroom, and discusses their varieties, nicknames, health and culinary properties, and geographic locations. The recipes from his Pennsylvania restaurant, though a bit upscale in taste, don't force the ingredient into odd combinations. Thoughtful and enthusiastic words and dishes for both city and country dwellers.